Our last day in Parisand the last of these blogs.
We spent most of the day cleaning and saying our goodbyes to people in the flats, at the cafe where we go almost every day and in the shops where we have become known (probably as those crazy Australians). We were very touched by several of the people who expressed shock that we were leaving. One of the lasses who works at the cafe said, "not forever" and when we told her we would be back briefly in April she said it was OK for us to go as long as we would be back before too long. At the Alimentation, one of the men who works there said to Virginia, "How can it be that you are going. You are the quintessential Parisian housewife with your baguette, doing the daily shopping." Of course, Virginia's response was "no, not me, my husband's at home cooking the lunch and cleaning the bathroom!" Hardly French, that.
We went to lunch at the Cafe Franceour and while it was tinged with sadness, we are now looking forward to being back in Australia with our family and friends and the promise of a new grandchild in less than three months. We are not, however, looking forward to getting up at 5.00am tomorrow morning with the temperature well below zero and waiting for a cab to take us to the airport. That's always one of the worst things about travelling, but, if you want to travel you have to, as a young woman once advised us, "put on your 'patience' hat."
So, we leave Paris for now (... but we'll be back on the 31st of March. Only 90 days, but who's counting?). But before returning to Paris we will have a week in London and two weeks in Venice where we are going to study that greatest of all maritime cities. We haven't decided yet whether we are going to blog this next trip, but it is likely we will do so, so, head for the website,
http://www.venice.blogspot.com.
01 January 2010
New Year's Eve, Thursday, 31 December
New Year's Eve and sadly the time has come for us to book into our flights. While we are not looking forward to leaving Paris, we are looking forward to our flight to Singapore on the new A380 airbus. We are told, by friends who have flown on it, that it is quieter and smoother than anything else in the air these days (with the possible exception of a hot air balloon).
Although the weather is turning cold again we took a rather long walk. Partly this was of necessity since, having gotten our boarding passes via the internet, we needed to find a place to print them out. We had checked, some days ago, and found an internet cafe near Abbesses where this could be done and, since we were in the area, we took the funicular up to the Butte for a last look at the Place du Tertre.
In the late afternoon we caught the bus over to the elegant 16eme Arondissment where we spent New Year's Eve with friends. We enjoyed a delightful dinner at the home of our friends but decided to leave before midnight to avoid the crush that would be inevitable on public transport. And it was every bit as busy as we thought it might be. For one thing, all public transport in the city is free on New Year's Eve and into the following day. We travelled by Metro which meant making two transfers and one of the stations is very near the Eiffel Tower. You can imagine the crowds in the stations. Nonetheless, we made it home and watched the lights of the Eiffel Tower on the television - exactly like you could have done in Australia or wherever you are reading this.
To bed around 1.30 knowing that tomorrow is our cleaning and packing day although we may go out for lunch to Cafe Franceour.
A walk through old haunts, Wednesday, 30 December
More spectator sport this morning as the cars outside the flat were impounded. We checked the amount of time it takes to put the straps under the car, lift it onto the back of a truck and drive off. From the moment the truck arrived until the time it departed with the car was just under three minutes. And we thought the process today took a bit longer than usual!
It is a beautiful day with the temperature around 12 degrees - so we decided to take a walk through some of the places we had been in previous years but had not visited this time. We took the Metro to Madeleine and then walked over to the Opera Garnier along the Boulevard de la Madeleine.
From there we headed down the Avenue de l'Opera with a diversion along rue Daunou where we stayed the first time we came to Paris in 1996. Oddly enough it was terribly cold on that short visit; so cold that the water of the fountains froze in their arcs. It hadn't changed much although one of our favourite eating places was gone. Harry's American Bar, where Hemingway and the other expats drank in the 1920s, however remained there at 5 rue Daunou.
Back along Avenue de l'Opera to Palais Royal where we had lunch at Cafe Nemour on Place Colette right next to Comedie Francaise. This is one of Virginia's favourite watering holes. It is definitely the kind of place where you don't sit down, you install yourself in a very tight little corner.
After lunch we strolled down the rue de Rivoli which was crowded with tourists taking advantage of the fine weather while being taken advantage of by the many shopkeepers. We popped into Angelina's to purchase a chocolate gift for friends. It was, as usual, very crowded and the only language that seemed to be in evidence was English. Then on to W. H. Smith to get some reading matter for the trip ahead.
Later in the afternoon we went down to our local shops where we watched people buying up for New Year's Eve with great interest. Wonderful goods on display, particularly shellfish and foie gras which we are told is a New Year's Even tradition. The French seem to celebrate the Reveillon de la Saint-Sylvestre (New Year's Eve) far more seriously than they do Christmas day itself. The celebrations go on until la fete des Rois or twelfth night when the special pastry, la Galette de Rois is eaten and a game to be selected as King and wear the Crown is played.
It is a beautiful day with the temperature around 12 degrees - so we decided to take a walk through some of the places we had been in previous years but had not visited this time. We took the Metro to Madeleine and then walked over to the Opera Garnier along the Boulevard de la Madeleine.
From there we headed down the Avenue de l'Opera with a diversion along rue Daunou where we stayed the first time we came to Paris in 1996. Oddly enough it was terribly cold on that short visit; so cold that the water of the fountains froze in their arcs. It hadn't changed much although one of our favourite eating places was gone. Harry's American Bar, where Hemingway and the other expats drank in the 1920s, however remained there at 5 rue Daunou.
Back along Avenue de l'Opera to Palais Royal where we had lunch at Cafe Nemour on Place Colette right next to Comedie Francaise. This is one of Virginia's favourite watering holes. It is definitely the kind of place where you don't sit down, you install yourself in a very tight little corner.
After lunch we strolled down the rue de Rivoli which was crowded with tourists taking advantage of the fine weather while being taken advantage of by the many shopkeepers. We popped into Angelina's to purchase a chocolate gift for friends. It was, as usual, very crowded and the only language that seemed to be in evidence was English. Then on to W. H. Smith to get some reading matter for the trip ahead.
Later in the afternoon we went down to our local shops where we watched people buying up for New Year's Eve with great interest. Wonderful goods on display, particularly shellfish and foie gras which we are told is a New Year's Even tradition. The French seem to celebrate the Reveillon de la Saint-Sylvestre (New Year's Eve) far more seriously than they do Christmas day itself. The celebrations go on until la fete des Rois or twelfth night when the special pastry, la Galette de Rois is eaten and a game to be selected as King and wear the Crown is played.
29 December 2009
Summer Weather, Artists and La Crise, Tuesday, 29 December
Spring has arrived, if you can imagine spring in the Northern hemisphere in the middle of winter. All the cafe terraces are pumping with people sitting outside enjoying a temperature of a mild 12 degrees. Up on the Place Du Tertre all the "artists" were out spruiking for business and being well rewarded for their efforts during this spring weather. The bad news is that snow is forecast for the end of the week and the day before we depart.
The winter sales do not start until the 6th of January (twelfth night) and at the moment the papers are all asking why the delay in light of the financial crisis (La Crise). The papers are also reporting that the French are very pessimistic about the future in light of La Crise; a view which has been expressed by a number of economists including some friends of ours who believe we are now only at the start of a serious financial fall rather than at the end of it.
Ignoring the financial bad news and taking advantage of the good weather, we walked down to the area around Abesses to do some vegetable shopping. Even in the small shops food is beautifully displayed. We bought beans from Kenya, blueberries from Argentina and raspberries from Spain. The quality and variety of fruit and vegetables here is quite incredible. Even a small shop such as the one we went to today will have at least five different varieties of mushrooms. While it might be possible to get such variety in Hobart, it would require going to a specialist shop whereas here, just about every greengrocer will have such a selection.
The winter sales do not start until the 6th of January (twelfth night) and at the moment the papers are all asking why the delay in light of the financial crisis (La Crise). The papers are also reporting that the French are very pessimistic about the future in light of La Crise; a view which has been expressed by a number of economists including some friends of ours who believe we are now only at the start of a serious financial fall rather than at the end of it.
Ignoring the financial bad news and taking advantage of the good weather, we walked down to the area around Abesses to do some vegetable shopping. Even in the small shops food is beautifully displayed. We bought beans from Kenya, blueberries from Argentina and raspberries from Spain. The quality and variety of fruit and vegetables here is quite incredible. Even a small shop such as the one we went to today will have at least five different varieties of mushrooms. While it might be possible to get such variety in Hobart, it would require going to a specialist shop whereas here, just about every greengrocer will have such a selection.
Christmas Lights and the Eiffel Tower, Monday, 28 December
Time is now drawing in on us and we have only a few more days before we leave Paris. As you will have gathered, dining out is something we quite enjoy; so today we headed down to the area near the University so we could get a couple of books at Shakespeare and Co., to read on the flight back and to have a meal at Chez Clement. You may remember we mentioned this restaurant chain before; having eaten there with different friends on two separate occasions. This time we were on our own and went to a different one of the chain. Very posh, indeed. Very Bel Epoque inside and the food was every bit as good as we remembered it at the other two restaurants in the chain.
In the evening we decided since the weather was a bit milder, to go out to see the Christmas lights. We got to the Champs Elysees and strolled about half the length up to the etoile. All of the trees were decorated with blue lights and the store fronts ranged from sensational to magnificent. Hopping aboard a bus we went down to Concord, where the great ferris wheel is located and then came back on the same bus to the Rond Point des Champs-Elysees.
From there, we wandered down toward the Seine, to the Place d'Alma along the rue Montaigne where the trees were all red lights. Everything there is very classy and very understated.
From there we had a terrific view of the hourly light display of the Eiffel Tower. While not as sensational as the New Year's Eve display on the Harbor Bridge, it was pretty spectacular and not even New Year's Eve.
27 December 2009
Chateau de Vincennes, Sunday, 27 December
Chateau de VincennesI think we spoke too soon, again. While the temperature is warmer, today we had cold winds which seemed to rip through us. We decided, in the expectation of quite nice weather, to visit Chateau de Vincennes. This is amazingly easy to get to being the last stop on the Metro Ligne 1. The Chateau is in the southeast corner of Paris and is in what is a most elegant neighbourhood just outside the peripherique or ring road which surrounds the older part of the city. Here one finds a park of almost 1,000 hectares with lakes, paths and, of course, the great chateau.
The Chateau de Vincennes is is a royal chateu with fortifications and a moat surrounding it. There is a dungeon there that dates from 1369 and a magnificent Chapelle Royale. Unfortunately, due to the biting cold and limitations of time, we didn't have the opportunity to explore it in any great depth, but it is definitely on our "must do" list for the next time we are here.
On the way back we stopped at the Hotel de Ville where the outdoor ice-skating rink is set up and watched for a while before hopping a bus to a Metro station and then home.
Boxing Day, Saturday, 26 December
There is no public holiday on "Boxing Day" in France. Normal Saturday services, including postal deliveries, resumed. We spent the morning doing routine chores and taking care of some matters on the computer and then went for a long walk around Montmartre. Paris is always full of surprises. We turned down one street only to find ourselves in what must be the fabric district. Shop after shop with cloth of all different sizes, shapes, quality, colour and variety. We turned another corner and found ourselves on the street where Tati is located. Until now we had been getting there by bus or Metro and suddenly we found it was only ten or fifteen minute walk from our flat.
In the afternoon we went to M. Vaucanson for a glass of champagne to celebrate Virginia's birthday. Well, M. Vaucanson does these little goute (tasting or afternoon tea) with considerable elegance. Apple tarts, those elegant French Macaroons which are flavoured little meringues sandwiched with delicious paste, super chocolates ( and, by the way, France has just been named as having the best chocolates in the world) were followed with some lovely champagne.
Progress has also been made on the use of prenoms. Mme Rosen is now Virginie, M. Rosen is now Bruce and M. Vaucanson has been gradually becoming Rene. And all that after only four years!
Everything, as they say, is relative. Now that temperatures have climbed up to a hardy 2 or 3 degrees above zero, we feel as if summer had practically reached us. Fortunately we have not yet decided to throw off our clothes and try swimming, but it does seem quite pleasant after the very cold weather to which we were subjected for the previous few weeks.
In the afternoon we went to M. Vaucanson for a glass of champagne to celebrate Virginia's birthday. Well, M. Vaucanson does these little goute (tasting or afternoon tea) with considerable elegance. Apple tarts, those elegant French Macaroons which are flavoured little meringues sandwiched with delicious paste, super chocolates ( and, by the way, France has just been named as having the best chocolates in the world) were followed with some lovely champagne.
Progress has also been made on the use of prenoms. Mme Rosen is now Virginie, M. Rosen is now Bruce and M. Vaucanson has been gradually becoming Rene. And all that after only four years!
Everything, as they say, is relative. Now that temperatures have climbed up to a hardy 2 or 3 degrees above zero, we feel as if summer had practically reached us. Fortunately we have not yet decided to throw off our clothes and try swimming, but it does seem quite pleasant after the very cold weather to which we were subjected for the previous few weeks.
Christmas Day, Friday, 25 December
Ho, Ho, Ho, and a merry Christmas to one and all!
Life here goes on even on Christmas day. Most of the shops were open including the bakery, the cafes and the general grocery store. Newspapers were being published and public transport was running.
After a rather slow morning admiring what Pere Noel had brought for each of us, we went for a late lunch at Cafe Francoeur just across the road. Since it was Virginia's birthday they made something special of it - much to our surprise - by bringing out a lovely little cake with a huge sparkler attached. Everybody applauded and several people seeing the cake decided that they too would order them (but without the sparkler).
Although we had some plans for the afternoon, being somewhat sated after a very nice meal, we napped, read and decided that we didn't need any dinner. Thus ended a delightful Christmas day.
Life here goes on even on Christmas day. Most of the shops were open including the bakery, the cafes and the general grocery store. Newspapers were being published and public transport was running.
After a rather slow morning admiring what Pere Noel had brought for each of us, we went for a late lunch at Cafe Francoeur just across the road. Since it was Virginia's birthday they made something special of it - much to our surprise - by bringing out a lovely little cake with a huge sparkler attached. Everybody applauded and several people seeing the cake decided that they too would order them (but without the sparkler).
Although we had some plans for the afternoon, being somewhat sated after a very nice meal, we napped, read and decided that we didn't need any dinner. Thus ended a delightful Christmas day.
Christmas Eve, Thursday, 24 December
It seems that a large number of places close on Christmas Eve during the day. For example on the door of our local pharmacy it says "fermature exceptionelle le 24. Ouvert a 16.00 - 20.00. Why the chemist should be closed all day and then open for four hours in the evening, we have no idea. If you know, please share the knowledge with us.
Today is called Le Reveillon de Noel (Christmas Eve). The weather has turned better and as everywhere in the Christian world it was on for young and old alike. Shopping, food, etc. but for our Muslim friends in the smaller shops of the area it was just another day and their shops will be open tomorrow. Oddly enough, however, their shops are often the most heavily decorated with Christmas motifs; Santas, sleighs, christmas trees, etc.
Parisians seem very keen on environmental issues. Recently when Virginia and I went to the pharmacy, we made our purchases and since they were small, when we were offered a plastic bag, we said it was not required and just pocketed our purchases. You would have thought we had saved the world. The pharmacist launched into a "thank you for thinking ecologically" speech that would have done justice to the most fervent environmentalist. Oddly enough, at the same time, when you go to the grocery store there are no "green" bags for sale and the plastic bags are handed out with what virtually amounts to wild abandon! This seems to be one of the few blind spots since when we take our garbage down to put it into the big bins they are clearly labelled and there are three distinct categories in which your garbage is to be placed.
The weather has turned milder and we went for a long walk this afternoon with the temperature seeming warm at one degree above zero. It's amazing how quickly you become accustomed to the colder weather. Now, anything above zero seems warm to us. Our walk took us to the Place du Tertre where we had lunch in a small shop. The shop's cat was sound asleep on the table next to us and we both thought how this would have been frowned upon in Australia.
Later we did a bit of shopping and had some seafood and a very small Christmas log for Christmas eve dinner.
We send season's greetings to all who are reading this blog and best wishes for the New Year.
Today is called Le Reveillon de Noel (Christmas Eve). The weather has turned better and as everywhere in the Christian world it was on for young and old alike. Shopping, food, etc. but for our Muslim friends in the smaller shops of the area it was just another day and their shops will be open tomorrow. Oddly enough, however, their shops are often the most heavily decorated with Christmas motifs; Santas, sleighs, christmas trees, etc.
Parisians seem very keen on environmental issues. Recently when Virginia and I went to the pharmacy, we made our purchases and since they were small, when we were offered a plastic bag, we said it was not required and just pocketed our purchases. You would have thought we had saved the world. The pharmacist launched into a "thank you for thinking ecologically" speech that would have done justice to the most fervent environmentalist. Oddly enough, at the same time, when you go to the grocery store there are no "green" bags for sale and the plastic bags are handed out with what virtually amounts to wild abandon! This seems to be one of the few blind spots since when we take our garbage down to put it into the big bins they are clearly labelled and there are three distinct categories in which your garbage is to be placed.
The weather has turned milder and we went for a long walk this afternoon with the temperature seeming warm at one degree above zero. It's amazing how quickly you become accustomed to the colder weather. Now, anything above zero seems warm to us. Our walk took us to the Place du Tertre where we had lunch in a small shop. The shop's cat was sound asleep on the table next to us and we both thought how this would have been frowned upon in Australia.
Later we did a bit of shopping and had some seafood and a very small Christmas log for Christmas eve dinner.
We send season's greetings to all who are reading this blog and best wishes for the New Year.
Plumbing and Cigarettes, Wednesday, 23 December
Another frustrating day waiting for the plumber who, surprise, surprise, did not arrive again. This is growing old. No need to say any more except that it is especially frustrating during Christmas week when we have shopping to do. Once again we did the separate bit which is not nearly as much fun as going out together. Virginia went out early and found that it was a madhouse on the streets with everyone trying to get their last minute shopping done.
She came back looking somewhat frazelled around 1.00 and I then went out. My experience just confirmed hers. Buses and the Metro were jammed full although most people seemed to take it all in their stride and were quite cheerful about it. You may remember some time back I mentioned the "illegal" cigarettes. Well, down around TATI, there were dozens of street sellers who, in addition to selling knockoffs of well known perfume brands and belt buckles hawked these cigarettes.
She came back looking somewhat frazelled around 1.00 and I then went out. My experience just confirmed hers. Buses and the Metro were jammed full although most people seemed to take it all in their stride and were quite cheerful about it. You may remember some time back I mentioned the "illegal" cigarettes. Well, down around TATI, there were dozens of street sellers who, in addition to selling knockoffs of well known perfume brands and belt buckles hawked these cigarettes.
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