29 October 2009

Westward Ho ... Wednesday, 28 October

While Bruce spent the day mooching about London, I went to the West Country where I was born.

The train trip between Bristol (or Bath Spa) and London Paddington has been familiear to me since the very earliest days of my childhood when my mother took me up to London a couple of times a year to see the various sights. In those days (sixty plus years ago) the trip was, of course, by steam engine and it took nearly four hours to complete the100 mile journey. Then, there were two sittings for each meal in the Pullman car; now the trip takes less than an hour and a half, hardly time for a cup of coffee at the buffet! With trains every half an hour in each direction, it is no wonder that places like Bristol and Bath Spa have become commuter suburbs for London.

I caught the 8.30 train, arriving at Bath Spa well before 10.00. Bath was first established as a spa resort by the Romans in AD 43. It was to become a famous spa town during the Georgian Era and has beautiful buildings from that period. Jane Austin lived there and many famous literary lights visited the city or came to "take the waters." It is my favourite place in England and when I win the 20 million dollar lottery I just might be able to afford a one bedroom flat on the glorious Royal Crescent.Bath was at its very best on this occasion, the wonderful Bath stone buildings glowing in the late autumn sunshine and the beautiful trees all shades of red and gold.

A friend met me at the station and we drove around admiring the Somerset scenery. Eventually we arrived at Homewood Park at Charterhouse and had coffee. Homewood Park is a country estate which now operates as a luxury hotel with gorgeous views over the old estate grounds. Charterhouse is the most delightful village with steep and winding narrow lanes making it only just possible for two cars to pass, one if not both having to climb the verge. It is not an experience for the faint-hearted. The actress, Jane Seymour, owns a home which was previously an ancient convent and the villagers say she is often seen in the village in her "wellie boots."

One thing that I have always missed in Australia is the English style pub and particularly that wonderful institution, the country pub. So, the next stop was at the Hungerford Arms at Farleigh Hungerford. Although this is a fairly ordinary pub it has the most magnificent views of Farleigh Castle, again particularly stunning amidst the autumnal trees. Lunch was at another pub, the Old Bear at Staverton. English pub grub, although plain, is reliable and reasonably priced. As it happened, on this occasion, we nearly got a free lunch. A very generous wake was being held following the funeral of a local celebrity and they thought we were part of it and brought us a tray of food and drink. Sadly we felt obliged to explain and refuse!

Farleigh Castle

Later in the afternoon we drifted back to Bath for afternoon tea before I caught the train back to London.

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