Friday the 13th of November

So, who's superstitious?

In Paris nothing much opens before 10:00. Local boulangeries and the alimentations are the exception. We were going to the Musee d'Orsay this morning and set out early to avoid the crowds. On our walk to the Metro we were able to watch the setting up the various shops. This can be quite complex since it is not uncommon for a great deal of the merchandise to be exhibited in front of the shop and this ranges from hardware goods to fruit and vegetables. Some of the shops actually create mini-artworks; especially the fruit and vegetable shops. Very French and an example of how they take time to display their wares rather like they take time to eat and drink and sit in cafes. Nothing is too much to achieve the desired effect.

At the Musee d'Orsay we passed straight in having bought our tickets yesterday to avoid the long lines. Yeah, right, today there were no lines. Oh well, c'est la vie. While I am sure that there are many other museums which I have not visited and which would overwhelm me, I have a special affection for this one.



Probably it is because of the wonderful assortment of Impressionist and Post-Impressionist paintings. Or perhaps it is because it is such a remarkable space in which to exhibit some of the great art treasures of the world. For those who may not be aware of it, this is a former railway station which, in the 1980s, was saved from destruction only to be converted into the amazing museum that it now is. We were fortunate enough to find that there was a re-arrangement of the Impressionist's works to show them as part of a special exhibition, and the already superb collection was fleshed out by works from other sources.

Virginia describes the collection here as one which always makes her cry. After knowing the pictures for years on advertisements, chocolate boxes and calendars, to be face to face with them and feel the almost primal impact of these pictures is a truly remarkable experience. There is a great sadness, too, when one looks at the marvelous self-portrait of Van Gogh and one realizes that he only ever sold one painting in his lifetime and never had a formal exhibition of his works.

For lunch we had been promising ourselves something a little special. The restaurant at the Musee is very "Belle Epoque," with great chandeliers and full-on service and that was where we decided to dine. It was, and Virginia reminded me, our dining out experience for the week. And what an experience it was. First, the restaurant is beautiful. Second, the service could not be better. Third the food was super and, finally, the prices were not too over-the-top. Our advice is if you are going to Paris and planning on visiting the Musee d'Orsay, eat in their restaurant.

After a leisurely lunch like that and a couple of glasses of wine, there was only one thing to do - so we came back to the flat for a nap.

Summer has returned to Paris; or at least spring. The temperature today climbed to around 16 degrees and the skies were clear and blue with bright sunshine and just a hint of cloud. The forecast is for a twenty or thirty percent chance of light rain during the next few days, but the temperature to remain in the same range. Good food, good wine, fine art, gorgeous weather -- bonne vacances!

View to Sacre Coeur from behind the Railway Clock at the Musee d'Orsay