The Marais, Wednesday, 2 December

Place des Vosges

Back in the 13th century, as Paris began to expand beyond the Ile de la Cité, one of the first areas to which the city extended itself was a marshy area on the Seine. Hardly what one would think of as an elegant site, but by the 17th century, it had become the centre of aristocratic Paris. Like any area in any city, it had its ups and downs and in the 18th and 19th centuries the elegant buildings had become tenements and slums as the aristocracy headed for other locations. The whole area came close to being demolished, but in the early 1960s, the residents banded together to save it and it is now one of the more fashionable districts filled with truly elegant 17th century buildings.

One of those things which makes the area so interesting is the disparity between, on the one hand, fabulous shops down narrow winding streets while on the other being the centre of Jewish life in Paris. Here, cheek by jowl, one finds orthodox synagogues and wonderful museums; cheap falafel houses and very expensive art galleries. If it is Jewish, you can probably find it in the Marais.

The oldest square in Paris is found here as well; the Place des Vosges. It consists of 36 brick and stone pavilions rising from magnificent covered arcades. The square dates from the beginning of the 17th century, and after its completion in 1612, it became a home for many of the aristocracy. It was originally called place Royale, having been built by command of Henri IV, and during the Revolution it was renamed place de l'Invisibilité. In 1800 it acquired its present name. Among its better known residents have been Descartes, Pascal and Victor Hugo. Within the arcades is a primary school. Wow, can you imagine sending your children or grandchildren to a primary school in the Place des Vosges?

On the other side of the rue de Rivoli is the magnificent Hotel de Sens built between the 1470s and 1519 for the archbishops of Sens. It is one of only two pieces of domestic architecture remaining from the 15th century. As you can see, it is a little bigger than your average Australian 3 bedrooms on a quarter-acre. In fact, a quarter-acre would probably be too small to hold just the building. With its beautiful leaded windows and graceful turrets, it now houses the Bibliothéque Forney.

We finished our day at the Place du Tertre with a glass of wine while admiring the Christmas lights which now decorate the square. It was quite peaceful and the cold and wet weather has now discouraged all but a few of the "artists" and many of the tourists.